The collection we talk about most during the Spring/Summer 2024 fashion shows is the one that wasn't there. Phoebe Philo, who has yet to reveal the first results of her namesake line, initially scheduled to launch online in September, six years after her departure from Céline, has dominated fashion news all month. As the Spring/Summer 2024 fashion trends piled up, designers nervously waited to see if their collections would be overshadowed by a spontaneous digital release from a woman many revere as fashion's messiah.
Its cult status as an industry savior was only strengthened by the announcement that the Spring/Summer 2024 show would be Sarah Burton's last collection for Alexander McQueen and that Gabriela Hearst would also be leaving Chloe . New: Sabato de Sarno in Gucci, Peter Hawkings in Tom Ford, Peter Do in Helmut Lang and Louise Trotter in Carven. Does fashion have problems with stylists? At LVMH, the world's largest luxury group, only Dior and Pucci have female creative directors, while Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo have the same name. At Kering, the second largest fashion group, no brand is led by a woman or a person of color.
In the face of these demoralizing inequalities and in an equally pessimistic economic and political backdrop Designers played it safe for spring/summer 2024. The color palette was muted, with black and white masking the bright colors that normally are at the forefront of summer collections. Fiery Retina Red was one of the few shades to make it past the narrow color wheel. The post-pandemic era of body positivity (and the nude looks that accompanied it) has largely disappeared, and with it the greater diversity of body types that began to populate the catwalks.
Flashy clothes are in fashion and discreet elegance, accompanied by basic items such as trench coats, pencil skirts, dresses and good jeans, is in fashion. On fashion search engine Tagwalk, which scanned more than 11,000 images from the spring/summer 2024 shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, looks labeled as “minimalist” increased by 46% compared to the previous spring/summer season 2023. down by 52%, while 90s looks increased by 42%. The latter was also the most searched tag. Meanwhile, with the 25th anniversary of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy's untimely death next year, the "quiet luxury" trend led by Succession is giving way to something closer to the understated New York chic of the '90s. Calvin Klein.
What will you wear next year? The good news is that you probably already own most of your spring staples, and this chic look (a pop of red here, a white shirt there) will serve as an easy update. Flat shoes and Mary Janes don't go to waste, as does a well-tailored blazer. And thanks to Miuccia Prada and Miu Miu, carrying around a bowling bag full of yesterday's high heels, an extra pair of socks, a notebook, a wallet, keys and paracetamol is no longer a sin. The designer said her show was an exploration of modern beauty: "Not beauty, but beauty, the acceptance of unique characters, the joy of living." For a moment she gave us reason to smile.
Read More: Best Summer Dresses You're Seeing All Over Instagram
Shorts
If you can take a look at the shorts trend without having to immediately think of the Royal Teens song "1957" (or the Homer Simpson homage): well, we are culturally more stable than us. Microshorts graced the catwalks of Milan (especially at the opening of the new Gucci fashion show, now directed by Sabato de Sarno) and also arrived in Paris, at Chanel, Alexander McQueen and Isabel Marant. Consider this the logical conclusion to autumn's love of pantsless pants.
White Noise
Say yes to the white dress? Whether sheer or thickly embroidered, designers have clearly marked their departure with the euphoric pops of color and frothy pastels that appear in a multitude of white swan dresses each spring.
High-waisted trousers
Count on Jonathan Anderson to define this season's silhouette. At Loewe, the designer celebrated his tenth anniversary at the Spanish house by presenting a new model of very high-waisted trousers; So high, in fact, that the trousers came with a built-in corset to keep them in place underneath. the torso The good news: they immediately lengthen the legs, as Anderson's contemporaries at Alaïa, Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent attest.
Polo Club
If Mrs Prada says polo is good again, who are we to argue? As Miu Miu continues to become one of the most influential shows on the calendar, expect to see many more simple, collared cotton styles worn with everything from men's shorts to ruffled microskirts and sheath dresses. Gold brocade. also blouses decorated with sequins. This country club vibe persisted elsewhere, with rugby shirts from Dries Van Noten and DSquared2 and slippers and accessorized spa towels from Chanel and The Row. The key to making it look easy? Consider messing up your hair. No one likes an affected prepster.
Sheer Skirt
After several seasons of sheer dresses and lingerie-inspired details, the sheer skirt is the spring version solution. -Spotlight for a bold look both day and night. To add a feminine touch, Altuzarra paired sheer pencil skirts with soft crewneck sweaters and top-handled bags, a combination seen at Carolina Herrera, Coperni, Givenchy and Carven. If it looks a little complicated, he pairs the sheer layers with a bomber jacket and a thick belt, as from Louis Vuitton.